This is a majestic traverse and considered one of the best ways to climb Store Skagastølstind (Storen), which has been described by many as “The Jewel in the crown”. It is a long arduous tour following spectacular narrow ridges with sustained scrambling at grade 2/3 and sections of climbing at grade 4. A truly spectacular traverse!
Time: 13-17 hours (although it has been run in under 3 hours!)
Season: Summer to early Autumn (Climbed in winter and early spring as well)
Difficulties: Exposed sustained scrambling up and down (Grade 2/3) with several short sections of climbing (grade 4), 3 x rappel.
Rack: Mountain rack. 2 x 60m ropes.
Additional equipment: Crampons and axe.
Start: Turtagrø hotel.
- Walk up through the stunted birch trees to the NTK hut.
- From the hut head: go east, up the hill till it flattens at the col and then ascend the north ridge of Nordre Skagastølstind over boulders for 600 monotonous meters to the top. The last section of ridge to the top can be a little tricky to find the right route.
- From Nordre Skagastølstind to V-Skaret (A V shaped gap): Scramble down and up over Skagastølsnebbet and down to V- Skaret. There is a small slaby step / chimney near the top that can be tricky is icy.
- Climb out of V-Skaret: Pitch 1, is grade 4, climbing directly up until it is possible to climb diagonally left and then back right to a ledge and good belay. The next pitch at grade 2/3 first go diagonally right on a good ledge until it is possible to climb airily up to the top of a flatfish area. An area called Berges Stol.
- From Berges Stol to Midtre Skagastølstind: Scramble up, with some defined difficult sections that might in certain conditions require a rope to the top of Midtre.
- Midtre Skagastølstind to Halls hammer. Continue to follow the ridge with two sections of exposed down climbing (grade 3) until you reach a spectacular 300m length of ridge. Follow this narrowness, with one section of creeping with both a leg on each side of the mountain until you reach Halls hammer. A crag blocking the way.
- Halls Hammer to Vetle Skagastølstinden. To avoid climbing Halls hammer direct traverse on the north side over a slab called Patchells Slab (grade 4 – some people us a point of aid on fixed equipment at the start of the slab) and ascend a runnel back onto the ridge. Continue up the ridge with some boulder sections and a zig zag traverse on the south side to the top of Vetle Skagastølstind.
- Vetle Skagastølstind to Mohn Skar (Col between Vetle and Store Skagastølstind) Scramble down the south ridge of Vetle and locate the first of two abseils, continue to the second and continue scrambling down to the col (Mohns Skar). To reverse this section is grade 4+ / 5).
- Mohn Skar to Store Skagastølstind: Although looking formidable the ridge succumbs with relative ease. Scramble up, with an excursion on the west side before coming back to the ridge and ascending a slabby corner (grade 3) and then continue scrambling up until a short walk, passing a steep step brings you to the top of this majestic mountain.
There is no water along the route. From the col between Storen and South Dyrhaugstind there is a glacier that needs to be descended on the way back to Turtagrø. There is a bergschrund near its top that can be problematic the rest of the glacier is straightforward.
On a sunny day in July there can be quite a que at the abseil on Storen. Up to 3 hours at times. Be prepaid.